The New Big Three: Why Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet Dominate the Market
There’s a quiet shift happening in the world of fine watches — one where collectability, exclusivity, and craftsmanship now hold more weight than heritage alone.
Among my most discerning clients, three maisons have emerged as clear front-runners: Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet.
I call them The New Big Three — a modern interpretation of watchmaking prestige that reflects today’s evolving tastes and investment sensibilities.
Of course, collectors will know the original Holy Trinity of Swiss horology — Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin — a term coined in the 1970s. But that’s a conversation for another day.
Today, I want to share why these three powerhouses are consistently requested by my clients — and why they’re dominating both primary and secondary markets with equal force.
What Clients Consider Before Purchasing
While every client’s motivation is unique, most fall into one (or more) of these categories:
Investment budget
Are you entering the world of fine watches, or seeking a rare, high-value addition? I help clients clarify the level they want to play at and source accordingly.Collection building
Collectors seek out what few others can access — limited production pieces, iconic releases, and watches that signal a level of knowledge and exclusivity. Think limited releases, impossible-to-source dials, and models with cult status.Lifestyle alignment
A luxury timepiece should fit — not just in size, but in function. This is one of the most overlooked but crucial elements in choosing the right watch. Some clients require water-resistant functionality, stainless steel finishes, or durable rubber straps that align with a high-movement lifestyle. Others prefer gold hardware, diamond details, or Patek Philippe’s Tropical strap, which offers the aesthetic of leather with the resilience of rubber, ideal for clients looking to combine refinement with long-term investment wearability.
A Breakdown of The New Big Three
Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet are the names that continue to dominate today’s luxury watch conversations. Each of these maisons represents a unique balance of craftsmanship, innovation, and legacy.
What unites them? A loyal following across generations, unmistakable aesthetic codes, and enduring value on the secondary market. Their limited production runs and recognisable silhouettes make them not just wearable, but highly collectible.
While each brand speaks to a distinct kind of collector, they all offer accessible entry points, rare investment-grade editions, and an evolving relevance in the modern world of watchmaking.
Let’s take a closer look at what sets each apart.
Patek Philippe
Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is the ultimate expression of timeless refinement. This is the brand worn by royalty, aristocrats, and visionaries. Collectors revere it not just for its name, but for its precision, complexity, and discretion.
Known for pioneering complications like the world’s first perpetual calendar and double chronograph, Patek’s craftsmanship extends from movement to dial, from case to clasp.
It’s a house that doesn’t just make watches — it makes heirlooms. As they famously say “You never really own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.”
Rolex
There are few brands that carry the cultural weight of Rolex.
A Rolex is more than a watch — it’s a global symbol of achievement. Worn by leaders, athletes, and tastemakers alike, it is the embodiment of success and enduring excellence.
With a reputation for robustness and recognisability, Rolex strikes the rare balance between everyday wearability and generational legacy. It’s a name that carries gravitas — no introduction needed.
Audemars Piguet
Founded in 1875, Audemars Piguet brings innovation to tradition. The maison is known for pushing the limits of horology — particularly through the now-iconic Royal Oak, with its architectural design and bold presence.
Worn by innovators, creators, and rule-breakers, AP is the choice for those who lead — never follow.
It’s not just about complication — it’s about statement.
Navigating the Luxury Watch Price Spectrum
Whether you’re new to collecting or ready to secure a grail piece, here’s a guide to understanding current market tiers:
Entry-Level (€11,000 – €20,000)
Rolex Lady-Datejust 28mm
Rolex Datejust 36mm
Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, 41mm
(Our top sellers: pink and turquoise dials.)
Mid-Range (€20,000 – €50,000)
Rolex Land Dweller in Oystersteel & White Gold (40mm)
Vacheron Constantin Stainless Steel (37mm blue dial)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding (41mm, “Blue Nuit Nuage 50”)
High-End (€50,000 – €100,000)
Rolex Land Dweller in Everose Gold (36mm or 40mm)
Rolex Daytona “Tiffany Blue” (Yellow Gold, Rubber Strap, 40mm)
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Guilloché Dial (Ice Blue, 39mm)
Recently sourced for a VIP client with brown crocodile strap within days of its release — a standout moment.Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted (23mm, available in yellow, white or pink gold)
Haute Horlogerie (€100,000 – €1,000,000+)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Calendar in Rose Gold (39.9mm)
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow (Diamond & Multi-Sapphire, 39.9mm)
Patek Philippe Nautilus Moonphase (40mm, Rose Gold)
Ladies Nautilus (32mm, Azure Blue Dial, White Gold)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Skeleton” (Double Balance Wheel Openworked, 41mm)
Vacheron Constantin Ultra-Thin Skeleton Perpetual (Rose Gold, 41.5mm)
Richard Mille Charles Leclerc Limited Edition – One of only 150 made globally. Available now via our sourcing team.
Final Thoughts
Timepieces carry stories. Milestones. Meaning. For collectors, they’re more than accessories — they’re artefacts of legacy.
Whether you’re captivated by the precision of Patek Philippe, the universal iconography of Rolex, or the architectural edge of Audemars Piguet, each one represents something deeply personal.
Our role is to help you find the one that’s yours.
From discreet acquisitions to once-in-a-lifetime finds, we source watches that fit not just your wrist — but your story.
Luxury, curated for you.
– Sahar
Founder, Indulge in Luxury
