Insider Tips: What Hermès Collectors Really Look for When Curating a Collection
Once you move beyond your first few Hermès bags, collecting becomes something else entirely — more refined, more intentional, and deeply personal.
It’s no longer about the essentials.
It’s about the rare, the meaningful, and the meticulously chosen.
In this Journal entry, I’m sharing what true Hermès insiders look for when curating their collections — from rare colourways to milestone pieces — and why these details matter so much more than trends.
This isn’t about following fashion.
This is about building legacy.
What Sets a Hermès Insider Apart
A seasoned Hermès collector doesn’t shop impulsively. They curate with purpose — each piece reflecting not only aesthetic taste, but personal milestones, lifestyle, and generational value.
Here’s what they look for:
1. Rare Colourways
Collectors are constantly seeking tones that resonate emotionally — often shades they’ve seen once, years ago, and never forgotten. These colourways are produced in limited quantities and often disappear quickly from circulation.
Among the most requested:
Rose Sakura
Rose Confetti
Bubblegum
Blue Brume
Etoupe
Vert Criquet
Vanilla
Gris Ciment
Beton
Craie
Nata
White
Gold
Black
These hues are more than colours — they’re collector signatures.
2. Rare Leathers
Texture, rarity, and durability are key. Each leather tells a different story — and choosing the right one is essential for both aesthetic and investment longevity.
Some of the most coveted:
Himalayan (Nile Crocodile) – Requires exceptional skill to craft its icy tones
Crocodile (Niloticus & Porosus) – Two distinct species, both rare and radiant
Alligator – Premium grain, often used for smaller silhouettes
Ostrich – Lightweight and ultra-recognisable
Lizard – Polished and often used for mini bags
Chèvre, Lambskin, and Calfskin – Smooth and versatile
3. Stitching & Construction
The way a bag is stitched defines its finish:
Retourne – Seen on Birkins in Togo or exotic leathers. This inside-out stitch offers a soft, rounded shape and relaxed seam.
Sellier – Usually reserved for Kelly bags and exotic pieces. The outside stitch creates a crisp, structured profile with exposed edge stitching — elegant and polished.
Understanding this detail influences how a piece wears, ages, and presents.
4. Size & Proportion
True Hermès collectors choose size based on how a bag fits their lifestyle — not just how it looks on the shelf. It’s about wearability, functionality, and how effortlessly it moves from day to night.
Birkin 25 & Kelly 25 – Highly wearable, effortlessly transition from day to evening
Birkin 20 (Gator) – Ultra-rare and highly collectible
Kelly 20 – The ultimate mini with sophistication; ideal for evening, and often sourced after a collection is underway
Birkin 40 & HAC 40 – Favoured by clients with travel-heavy lifestyles or those seeking function with form
Every size serves a different purpose — from day-to-night versatility to statement travel companions.
5. Date Stamp & Year
Every Hermès bag includes a blind stamp indicating the year of production, the atelier, and the artisan involved.
Vintage collectors may seek specific date stamps tied to meaningful years or historic value.
New collectors often prefer pieces with current or upcoming date stamps — fresh, untouched, and as close to their delivery year as possible.
Both perspectives are valid. What matters is how the bag connects to your story.
6. Hardware Choices
Hardware isn't just an accent — it’s a defining feature.
Most commonly requested:
Gold (GHW) – Classic, warm, and elegant
Palladium (PHW) – Bright, luminous silver tone
Rose Gold (RGHW) – Soft and romantic
Permabrass (PBHW) – A unique blend of gold and silver tones
Brushed Gold – 18k with a satin finish
Rare and special edition hardware includes:
PVD (“So Black”) – A matte black finish seen only on exclusive releases
Ruthenium – A cool-toned dark grey, often used on exotic pieces
Diamond, Guilloché, Sterling Silver, and more — each deserving its own Journal entry
7. Milestone Moments
An insider often ties a piece to a life event:
A wedding anniversary. A career milestone. A child’s birth. A personal achievement.
I’ve had clients request pink or blue bags for gender reveals. One client purchased a Kelly Sterling Silver Bijou for his wife as a Valentine’s Day gift — a piece so rare it’s typically only seen at auction.
Moments matter. And the right piece makes them unforgettable.
8. Lifestyle Fit
Every collector’s lifestyle is different — and so is their collection strategy.
For event-based lives:
Kelly 20, Kelly Pochette, Mini Constance, exotics in HSS
For professionals and frequent travellers:
Birkin 30 or 35, HAC 40, Kelly 28 in neutral tones
Curation is about alignment — and understanding the rhythm of your life.
9. Limited Editions & Exceptional Rarities
This is where collectors truly set themselves apart.
Recent highlights from our private stock list:
Kelly Sterling Silver Bijou
Diamond-encrusted Himalayan Kelly & Birkin
Faubourg B20 “Rainy Day” Bag
Wicker Picnic Bags (Birkin & Kelly)
Clouté Kelly with Palladium studs
Lizard Constance and Kelly Pochette
These pieces are rarely seen outside of auction houses — but they’re accessible to clients who know how to look, and who to trust.
Final Thoughts
Writing this Journal entry brought me so much joy — because for once, I get to put into words what I see and feel every day.
A true Hermès collection is a reflection of you — your milestones, your energy, your evolution.
As a collector myself, every piece in my wardrobe holds meaning. I don’t carry them to impress — I carry them to remember. And that, to me, is what makes luxury truly personal.
From one Hermès insider to another: it’s not just about the bag.
It’s about the story behind it.
Luxury, curated for you.
Sahar
Founder, Indulge in Luxury
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